Friday, 2 November 2012

Thailand, Malaysia, Singapore and Perth - Phew!



Thailand - Island life!

7th - 14th Sept - Life´s a beach!

We made our way South from the lovely countryside of Northern Thailand, excited to see the coast and work on our tans on the famous picture perfect beaches on the Southern Isles.  Getting there involved a bus from Pai to Chiang Mai and then a late night flight to Phuket for a few hours kip before a ferry the next morning to Koh Phi Phi.  Pretty exhausted but raring to go we spotted our first scenic beauty spot when our ferry sailed past the part of the Koh Phi Phi national park where the movie The Beach was filmed - a little more crowded than the movie would have you believe but beautiful non the less.  




We arrived on Phi Phi and wandered through the town to find our hostel which was up hill giving us a nice view of the bay. After a quick lunch we found ourselves a spot on the beach and spent the day playing in the sea - which was so shallow it was up to Cal E's knees for up to a good 200m out! That evening we saw one of the most amazing sun sets we had seen so far on the trip - a nice reward following the hike up a huge hill to the view point over Phi Phis 2 main beaches.









That night we headed into town for some dinner and randomly bumped into Nick - a guy we had met in Vietnam - at a bar and headed with him and his mates to watch some amateur Maui Thai boxing - the boxing ring was literally in the middle of the pub and anyone could have a go in the ring who was feeling brave enough! We decided to watch from the sidelines and egged on those who decided they were hard enough - including a couple of chicks who went a few rounds - much to the disappointment of all the guys watching the girls fighting it out didn't quite live up to their expectations!  The night continued on the beach with some dancing at the beachside club beside the flame throwers and the other pyrotechnic acts!







Unfortunately we only had 1 night on Phi Phi as we had to make our way to the East coast Islands so the following day was a travel day and we reached Koh Samui that evening - just in time to wander along the shore from our bungalow and have some dinner on the beach.  The following morning we decided the best way to get round Samui would be by scooter so we all went to the nearby shop to rent some. We all had a little practice and the owner was satisfied with Cal E and Cal Y's performance, however he was not quite so impressed with Sarah's demonstration of her scooting skills.....now she didn't actually hit the wall she accelerated right towards at high speed but the close call was too much for the owner and he decided in no uncertain terms that only 2 scooters were to be rented and Sarah was not to be in control of one.....  So off we went with Sarah (feeling slightly sheepish) on the back of Cal Y's scooter on our tour round Samui. We stopped at a few lovely beaches for some swimming and view points - almost going to whole way round the little Island - before heading back to our guest house - and yes Sarah did get to drive - a little more practice did the trick and she drove home with the 2 Calum´s precariously balancing on the other scooter - only to get busted as we drove past the hire shop on the corner....oopsie! The owner was more grateful to see the bike in one piece more than anything else so all was well!






The following day we left Samui and headed to our third Island stop - the party Island of Koh Phangan.  Now, we knew before arriving here that we had missed the famous full moon and half moon parties but we had also been told by EVERYONE that the party on Phangan never stops so we were ready for a fun filled night of buckets, flame throwers and beach dancing.  In preparation we had a good dinner and purchased some supplies from the local bottle shop to make our own buckets for some pre drinking fun (on the cheap).  We had all the ingredients necessary for an epic night. 


After our buckets were finished we made our way through the town towards the beach expecting to find fellow revellers en route.....but there were none! The whole beach was like an eerie ghost town.  We found the one bar that had a relatively lively atmosphere and tried to make the most of it! We stayed for an hour of so before heading back to our bungalow - a good excuse to come back another time right in the middle of the party season!

 



Determined to find some atmosphere we moved hostels the next day to the other main town on the Island - unfortunately this was almost even more quiet than the night before.  We chilled during the day at the pool and wandered round the town a bit before going in search of some more lively bars.  Unfortunately our search was in vain but we did come across a Korean BBQ style restaurant which was a flat rate for all you could eat! Absolutely no idea what you we were expecting but there was a never ending selection of meat, seafood, veggies, noodles etc - mmmmmmm. The only catch being whatever food you left on your plate you had to pay for...needless to say we all stacked up at the beginning and were there a long time before we managed to clear our plates...challenge accepted and done!    

Next day we headed to out 5th and final Island - the idyllic Island of Koh Tao known for it's diving and underwater world.  Our hostel was a little out of the main town but pretty relaxed and came with a family of kittens! Dinner was on offer at the hostel so we chatted to our fellow backpackers over a few beers, had some dinner and then made our way into town for some partying -  finally a beach town with a seriously good night life! We partied at 2 beach side bars until the wee hours with the folks from our hostel taking care to avoid the maingy flee ridden dogs who liked to follow you round the beach all night! 


The next day, once the hangover lifted, was supposed to be our day for getting the snorkels and flippers on and seeing what marine life Koh Tao had to offer but.....there was a storm all day on the Island and it was pretty cold, wet and windy.  Whilst it did remind us of home it meant that snorkeling or doing anything beachy related was out of the question.  We had a full day to kill before our night ferry to the mainland so we chilled out at the hostel and watched dvd's all day!  I guess you all need a duvet day once in a while!  That night we headed to the ferry port to get our boat to the main land the following morning for our flight to Malaysia.  Thailand = DONE!



15th-20th Sept - Malaysian flying visits 

Our ferry docked on the Thai mainland about 2 hours from the airport at Suri Thani so we had an early morning mini bus ride to the airport to catch our flight.  We arrived in Kuala Lumpar in the afternoon and made our way to our hostel - eager to meet Laura! Laura (our friend from London) was flying into Kuala Lumpur from Indonesia to meet us on her way to Bangkok to catch her flight to New Zealand! We had arranged to both stop over on the 15th in KL so we could catch up and have a night out!  We arrived first so got settled into the hostel and went for some lunch before Laura arrived that evening. Once we were all present and accounted for we headed into the bright lights of KL to get some dinner and a few beers! Had a great night and lots of laughs - really good to catch up with someone from back home! 

 

The next day we bid farewell to Laura as she headed onwards and we got ready to head into the city.  We met up with a guy from our hostel - Josh - and went to the Petronas towers for some photo taking and then wandered round the city.  We half thought about going up the KL tower for a view over the city but decided to head to the cinema instead (sometimes you can do too much sightseeing) and went to see The Watch before grabbing a hot pot dinner on the street beside our hostel.


 

Having had our fill of KL we headed for the quieter coastal town of Melaka.  We all really loved Melaka - lovely quaint streets, boutique shops, fab restaurants and a great atmosphere.  We arrived in the evening so went to a restaurant recommended by our hostel owner and listened to some live jazz music - ace!  The next day we got cultural and wandered round the centre of Melaka and went to the maritime museum and a naval museum which was on an old reconstructed ship.  They were both really interesting and explained a lot about the importance of Melaka in the past as a bustling port for traders.  The town itself was controlled at various times by the French, Portuguese and Dutch and you can see the European influence in the architecture of the town as well as the shops and the food! A local delicacy was a dish of rice balls - we found somewhere to have a sample - but really nothing more too it than rice in the shape of a ball! We chilled out back at our hostel for the rest of the afternoon and waited on our mate Sean to arrive. We met Sean in Chiang Mai and bumped into him in KL again and he was now coming to join us at Melaka.  Once he arrived we went out for a delicious dinner of chicken satay skewers that we cooked ourselves on the table - mmmmmm! We finished of the evening with a tower of beer - as you do - at a bar close to our hostel!



The following day was pretty relaxed, we had a long lie and spent the afternoon wandering around the streets and shops. We had another local dish - a laksa (big bowl of soup with chicken and noodles in a spicy broth with some veg and tofu) - for lunch before the boys went on a T shirt shopping spree. That evening we went on a night time boat cruise down the river which was lovely and headed for our best Melakan meal yet - a tandoori chicken dinner with loads of nan - absolutely amazing! Back to the pub again for a farewell drink with Sean as this was to be our last night in Melaka before heading to Singapore for the Grand Prix!!  




Singapore - 21st - 28th Sept - Vroom vroom

We arrived in Singapore after our long bus from Melaka, and then set about heading to Chinatown to our first hostel – Beary Best. A local bus later we found where we were supposed to be and settled in. There is also Beary Nice and Beary Good hostels nearby, but it was only the Best for us! Good to get a rest when we arrived.
There was one main reason we were in Singapore when we were, and the reason that has governed the timing for the rest of our trip. Of course, the Singapore Formula One Grand Prix! Three days of deafening motor engines and amazing night time views of the city. The Singapore Grand Prix has a track custom built every year in the city centre – surrounded by towering skyscrapers. It is also the only night time race in the calendar – so something we had been looking forward to for months! 
Friday was practice day. During the day time we chilled out at the hostel – writing blogs and more! – and then in the evening we had a look around the city and found some great (and cheap!) eats. Then came the time for our walk to the track, around 7pm. It was dark in the city, and even without the race, it is a magical place to walk around at night – with the glare from the office block lights sparkling off the river that runs through the city. Add to that the roar of F1 engines, when you are still 1km away from the track, and you have a truly unique experience. Practice is the most quiet of the three days in terms of spectators, so the crowds were not too overwhelming, and we wanted to get our bearing of the track, so we could locate the best places to stand for the next two days – qualifying and the race itself on Sunday.



As well as the spectacular cars and drivers, there was also going to be a lot of live music to enjoy over the weekend. Before the practice we were treated to the creative human-beat-box genius of the Australian Tom Thumb. Using his voice to create sounds we didn’t think possible with the human mouth, he put on a great show. From soulful blues numbers, to upbeat drum and bass, to the sound of a cat and dog fighting under water, he really could do it all!

But, back to the cars. We found a corner where the cars had to slow, so we were able to get a good view of them all. As we were so close to the track, as I mentioned before, the noise was completely deafening, and unbearable without earplugs (which fortunately we all had!). We stayed for a couple of hours, then went in search of some much needed dinner. Singapore being the most expensive place we’ve been so far (bar Japan), we were lucky to find a hawker centre – the only place for cheap dinner and drinks! The other special thing about Singapore is that we were going to get to see our good friend Jenny, who was coming over for a few days on her way to Australia. That being the cse we decided to leave all the sight-seeing until she got here. That meant chilling out and saving the energy for night time races.

Saturday night brought the qualifying and some fierce competition. We were ready to support our fellow Scotsman, Paul Di Resta of Force India, and headed to the track. We managed to stand on one of the long straights. Great for witnessing the sound and acceleration, not so good for actually knowing who you were looking at – they were that fast. Quali went well with Hamilton getting pole, and our Paul getting 6th spot on the grid.






The musical treats for qualifying led to us uttering words we never thought we would. “We’re standing watching Bananarama. Our mum’s would be so proud”. The other act on show after qualifying was Maroon 5. The main stage was absolutely packed, but we still managed to get a half decent view (although Sarah’s height was a bit of an issue!). We also found out that Singaporeans apparently love Maroon 5!


Sunday came about and that meant one thing – the big race. After chilling out in preparation, we headed to the track for the third time and were tingling with anticipation. Before the race we also witnessed the musical delights of Noel Gallagher’s High Flying Birds, watched by Sarah and Cal Y while Cal E went to get patriotic and watched The Proclaimers.

Then, Di Resta saltire in hand, we headed to the big screen to watch the start of the race, followed by a quick jog over to our favourite corner to watch what we could. The problem with this corner was that there were no big screens to actually see what was happening in the race! Fortunately for us, a guy next to us had a “FanZone” handset, which showed the race – so we could keep abreast of what was going on. This also happened to be the corner next to the one where Michael Schumacher crashed, so we got a good view of that.



A couple of safety cars and a career best performance from Di Resta, which saw him finish fourth, ensured it was a great experience. All rounded off with a typically in-your-face musical performance by Katy Perry afterwards.

So, Grand Prix over the second part of our Singapore experience was about to start – moving to a hostel in Little India to meet Jenny! She was the first friendly face from home we had seen in nearly four months, so a very welcomed sight. Made all the more so because she brought us Irn Bru!!! 


We were all looking forward to a great few days, with plenty planned that we had yet to do – starting with a trip to the legendary Singapore Zoo and Night Safari. The zoo was very large, and unique in that it has mostly open enclosures – so you were what seemed like an easy leap away from lions, tigers and rhinos. A particular highlight was the extremely rare white tigers, and also the elephant show – where they elephants looked to be treated a lot better than some we have seen on the travels. 




Finishing at dinner time me made the short walk to the night safari – where you can get to see the nocturnal animals at their most active. We grabbed some dinner, and at the same time, Calum E was grabbed to take part in the fire eater stage show… any excuse to remove his top and show off that Scottish tan!


The night safari was a lot of fun, and we particularly enjoyed (if that’s the right word) the bat enclosure – watch you heads! We also met up with our American friend Sean whom we met before on our Chang Mai trek in Thailand and again in Malaysia.

The next day we met a friend of Sarah’s for lunch, then headed for the attraction for which we had heard several recommendations… the Tiger Beer Factory! We all took the tour round the factory then enjoyed the hour of free beer. Boom. Jenny won the pint pouring contest – clearly a pro!

The other attraction just off the coast of Singapore is Sentosa island. A large amusement island, lined by beaches and filled with attractions such as the aquarium, which was the biggest pull for us. All sorts of weird and wonderful creatures. And the dolphin and seal show was pretty impressive too!




After a day of walking around enjoying the scenery, the night brought the need to try our first Singapore Sling in Raffles Hotel! After putting on semi-decent clothes which our travel bags would allow, we headed to extraordinarily fancy hotel, and went to the Long Bar. After being quickly shunted up another set of stairs as we were not residents of the hotel, we were treated to plush surroundings and fantastic music the bar had to offer. We ordered our Classic Slings and sat down at our table, monkey nuts and all. If the floor seems a bit crunching, this simply because everyone follows the tradition of dropping their monkey nut shells on the floor!


As I mentioned before, the band here were fantastic, hitting out classic jazz and golden oldies. The most entertaining moment was possibly when the band pointed out Cal E and got him up on stage to stand next to the lead singer – as they had the same ginger afro! We headed out again afterwards, but could only afford a couple in the expensive Singapore nightlife!



Then our final day in Singapore, and our final day in Asia! After a little lie in we headed to the Botanic Gardens. We were all flying out at night – Jenny to Melbourne and us three to Perth – so it was good to have a relaxed walk in the sunshine. When night came it was then time to say goodbye to Jenny – after too few days! Cal Y and Sarah will see Jen again at Christmas – but for Cal E it could be a while longer! The stormy weather that greeted us at the airport was not the most welcome sight, but we all got out safely and departed the continent in one piece!

Next stop, Australia!

Perth, Australia - 28th Sept - 8th Oct

As we touched down in Australia, the land of sunshine, we were aghast to hear the pilot announce that the weather was "a chilly 3 degrees"!! This was not part of the plan for Oz, especially for Cal Y who had only a single jumper and pair of trousers in his bag - cold weather was not meant to be on the itinerary for this trip!! A quick change out of the shorts and sandals was required before leaving the airport and just in time before Cal Y´s mate from home, John, strolled in to pick us up. Very good of him considering we landed at 4.30am!! We headed back to his where we woke up Lauren (John's better half) and went for an early breakfast up at Kings Park. This gave us a great view over the city of Perth as the sun came up to give us a bit of warmth. After breakfast John and Lauren went to work and we headed back to John's for a nap. 





A few hours later following a right good nap we met John and a few of his mates and started to get ready for a weekend of camping. Fortunately John and his mates were able to supply some spare sleeping bags and tents etc so around 7pm we had 3 cars packed and were on the road to Cervantes, a few hours north of Perth. Following a bit of a detour due to a bush fire we finally arrived on the beach and found a good spot to set up camp. You´re not actually allowed to camp on the beach in Oz but as there were 10 of us and we were on what we thought was a quiet beach, we hoped we wouldn't get get and if we did we could split the fine between us all. We built a fire and enjoyed a few beers before the cold got too much and we all retired to the warmth of our sleeping bags. Unfortunately that night only got colder and not much sleep was had but it meant everyone was up early which turned out to be a very good thing as we realised we were camped in the middle of what seemed to be a very popular beach with people already out walking their dogs. Quickly we packed up camp and headed further north to Jurian Bay.




We all arrived in Jurian Bay and went for a hearty breakfast before hiring some snorkeling gear and heading off to find a new beach. The first beach we found did not prove a success as both John's car and Rev´s car got stuck in the sand and required a serious digging effort to get us out. Fortunately a couple nearby saw our plight and along with there very large 4x4 were able to pull both cars off the beach. It cost us a 6 pack Corona´s but was well worth it to get back on our way. The next beach also provided the perfect spot for us to set up camp. Right on the beach, under a tree and next to a picnic table, the spot was ideal for us to set up base for the next 2 nights. We spent the next few hours in the water snorkeling, sunbathing and drinking a few more beers. That day and night were much warmer and so another fire was built and we had a great night eating drinking and playing "Mafia", an awesome game when in a big group.







The next day following a much better sleep, Dev and John had decided to do a skydive as the weather was beautiful and they would land right on the beach. So off we all went to see them jump out a plane from 14000 feet. It´s fair to say we were all quite tempted to join them but in the end the purse strings got the better of us and we decided not too. Cal Y and Sarah had also already done one and by the end of Oz Cal E will no doubt have also.......It looked ace though and the guys had a brilliant time, emphasised by their videos which we all watched afterwards. The rest of the day was on the beach again, chilling and swimming then that night we had a feast of chicken, fire roasted potatoes and salad. It was a great night to round off our camping weekend.



The next day we got up early and headed for some final snorkeling at a lagoon close to the beach we camped on. The water was beautiful and we saw a few very cool fish but not too many sadly. We then went for some breakfast before heading to our final stop before home, a beach called Wedge. What a beach it turned out to be, long white sand, unbelievably blue water, bordering on turquoise, and a few big waves for the surfers and body boarders to enjoy! It was a great laugh with Dev and Megan getting on their surf boards while the rest of us tried to catch some waves on the body boards. Thankfully John waited until after we had all got out the water to tell us that only a month or two ago a surfer had been taken by a shark on this beach!! We threw the Frisbee around a bit and the girls did some sunbathing before we called it a day and headed back to Perth. Once back we said goodbye to a few of the guys before the 3 of us, John, Lauren, Em and Juan headed for a fish and chips dinner on Cott beach. It was a great way to round off the weekend and a delicious meal!!





The next day was one of the best days we had in Perth as the 3 of us and John headed over to Rottness island. The island is slightly bigger than Millport but has the benefit of beautiful beaches and great spots for snorkeling and whale spotting. We hired some bikes and cycled round the island stopping a few stops for some great view and to see a few whales. The were quite far out but it was really cool to see their tails appear out the water before thrashing down. We had been told of a seal colony round the back on the island so we headed that way for lunch and we weren't disappointed. Right next to the shore were a group of at least 20 seals with nobody else around. We quickly jumped down into the water next to them and were lucky that they were all right next to a reef ledge that we could lie on and so get to within a couple of metres of them. From here we could use the snorkeling mask to see them under the water as the dove for fish and swam within the group. Had there maybe been a few less of them we may have tried swimming amongst them but with so many we decided to stay on the ledge. It was amazing to be so close though and see not only the seals but a huge number of fish in the same area. 





We then ate some lunch and headed over to the next spot that john had snorkeled in before. We had to climb down a cliff but the lagoon at the bottom was amazing and full of schools and schools of fish that we could swim in amongst. It was a great day and a place anyone going to Perth must go and visit. We then headed back to John's and had enough time for a few holes of golf at John's course before the sun went down. It got us all right in the mood for an evening in from of the TV watching the Ryder cup which John had taped when we were away camping. We had managed to avoid the score and so were all excited to watch it. We had a great dinner made by John and Lauren and watched the first 2 days which ended US 10 Europe 6, not the best going into the singles but not out of sight......




The next day John was back at work and so we decided to have a quiet day on the couch doing some planning and researching. Cal E was looking into trips on the east coast and getting himself set up in Oz while Cal Y and Sarah were looking into Melbourne and South America where they were headed next. The only break that day was to nip to the supermarket to pick up some supplies to repay dinner to John and Lauren that night which we did while enjoying the final day of the Ryder cup. What a day it turned out to be with Europe staging a dramatic comeback to just clinch the cup and have us all celebrating back at Lauren's!!

We got back to sightseeing the next day and headed to Freemantle which is the part of Perth full of artists, culture, op shops and, as it turned out, micro breweries. Our first stop though was Freemantle Prison which was now a museum and had been recommended to visit. We did one of the tours which was really interesting and the prison itself was exactly the kind you would expect from prison movies such as Shawshank, except a little smaller. Rows and rows of cells on 3 floors all so small you can´t imagine spending more than 5 minutes in them, never mind 30 years as some prisoners did. After the prison we went for some lunch at the first brewery of our visit to Freo, "The Monk". They were celebrating Oktoberfest which was great as we tried some awesome "Marzin" beer which is local to Munich. We then headed to "Little Creatures" which is the most famous brewery in Australia  makes some awesome beer. Their Pale Ale in particular was great as was their Pilsner. John then text to say him, Lauren and Em were heading over so we went to the final brewery "Sail and Anchor" where we met the guys and enjoyed some more Oktoberfest beers. We grabbed some dinner at what can only be described as a local Hawker market, the kind you find throughout Asia, which was ace and then headed to see a movie. Sadly we chose Taken 2 which, unlike its predecessor which was very good, turned out to be the worst movie ever made!! I´m not going to waste anymore typing on it but just please don't go and see it!!

After a week in Perth we decided it was probably a good idea to actually go in and see the city. So on Friday the 3 of us headed into town for a wander around. It turned out to be like any other city centre with one exception in that it´s right on the water so we were able to grab a picnic and go for lunch in a park right on at the water. It was another cracking day so we took a perverse pleasure in watching the groups of people taking park in the exercise classes in the park while we sat enjoying our chicken sandwiches while lazing in the sun. We also got some entertainment from a couple sitting no more than 10 metres from us straddling each other defying the laws of breathing as the sucked the faces off each other. Even a few of the people in the exercise classes were getting distracted by the show!! We then went for a drink on the water before heading back for a few holes of golf with John and then a BBQ and few beers. John did a stand up job cooking up some steaks for everyone before we settled in for a movie.

We had a lie in on Saturday as John was working in the morning and so we didn't have any plans until he finished at 1pm. Once he had though the 4 us and Lauren headed to Swan Valley which is full of wineries and breweries. We first though went to play some "Super Golf" which is a 9 hole course played with big plastic balls and clubs. It was great fun with Cal E and John and Lauren narrowly beating Sarah and Calum by one shot. We then went for a great lunch at the brewery next door before it was invaded by "bogans". Now bogans are described as "an individual who is recognised to be from an unsophisticated background or someone whose limited education, speech, clothing, attitude and behaviour exemplifies a lack of manners and education". Basically Australian neds!!! Out of nowhere 20 or more guys and girls turned up, many totally hammered, and invaded the restaurant, shouting, swearing and getting even more smashed. We took this as our signal to leave and so quickly did and headed back to Perth. Once back we met Rev and Em from the camping trip and headed back to Freemantle for a few drinks. We went to play some pool first and then back to Sail and Anchor where a live band were playing. It was a great night, the band were ace and a good few beers were had by all.

Our last day in Perth started with the 3 of us and John going for some golf at one of the local course. It gave me and Sarah a chance to exact some revenge following our defeat at supergolf the day before. Thanks to some real good shots from Sarah on the front 9 and then some great putts from Cal Y on the back 9 they manged to do so and carded a 5 and 4 victory much to the dismay of the other 2!! It was a good game though and once again we managed to luck out with the weather as the rain forecast managed to stay off. After golf we went to the Ocean Beach Hotel which is right on the beach next to Johns and is always busy on a Sunday as the locals enjoy a "Sunday session" from 2pm - 10pm. Rev, Lauren and a few others joined us as well as we enjoyed a few final beers in the Perth sun before heading to an Italian close by for our final dinner before saying goodbye. It was a brilliant 10 days in Perth and John, Lauren and all their mates were amazing in welcoming us and showing us a great time whilst there. We owe them all a huge thanks for making our stay in Perth so great.

The following morning the 3 of us got up early as Cal Y and Sarah had to go for their flight to Melbourne whilst Cal E had another day in Perth before his flight to Cairns that night. It was a sad goodbye following an amazing 4 months together. Cal E described it best later that day in his facebook post as"it really was the best of times". I think the 3 of us would all agree that it really was!! But the next adventures are still to be had with Cal E travelling down the east coast of Oz before settling in Sydney or Melbourne for a while and Cal Y and Sarah off to South America and then Whistler. And don´t worry, even though the 3 of us have separated this blog still at least another couple of months left in it!! 


 The last travel photo together. That sure is some travelling afro...


Sunday, 7 October 2012

Cambodia, Laos and Thailand part 1

The run down of our four weeks spanning Cambodia, Laos and the start of Thailand!

Cambodia - 18th - 23rd August

Phnom Penh - 18th - 20th Aug

We were sad to leave Vietnam as we had such an ace time but Cambodia was calling and it was time for another bus ride to a new country.  After a pretty heavy night out on our last night in Saigon we were pleased to have a long lie before getting our bus to Cambodia - unlike Valeria and Andrea who made it to the airport for their flight to KL on 2 hours kip - we are not that hard core!

Arriving in Cambodia's Capital City - Phnom Penh - we had a few main sights in mind that we wanted to go to - Section 21 and the Killing Fields.  On the first night we arrived we settled into our dorm and walked down the riverside to find some dinner and had a wander round the night market before heading back for an early night in preparation for a busy day tomorrow.

Take a deep breath....


Today was one of the most difficult days of the trip so far.  We arranged with a tuk tuk driver to visit S.21, the Killing Fields and the Russian Market. We met our driver and headed for the first stop. We didn't know too much about the recent history of Cambodia and had no preconceptions about what to expect other than we knew it would be tough viewing.  Section 21 (formerly Tuol Svay Pray High School) was used as a brutal prison, torture, interrogation and execution center for anyone who opposed the communist Khmer Rouge regime from 1976 - 1979 following the end of the Cambodian Civil War.  An estimated 14,000 men, women and children entered S.21 and only 7 are known to have survived when it was closed in 1979.  Much of S.21 has been left in the same state it was found in and you walk through the classrooms that had been turned into torture chambers just as they were left c.35 years ago.  Many of the walls are lined with photographs of the prisoners that were held in S.21 along with forced confessions of the crimes they were supposed to have committed.  Whether the prisoners signed a confession or not - the final outcome was still the same - the only purpose of collecting a signed confession was to justify the actions of Pol Pot and the Khmer Rouge. It really was horrendous to read about the sheer numbers (not just Cambodians but also some people from Europe, Australia, America and other Asian countries) who were tortured and killed at the hands of young Cambodians - many of which were supporting the Khmer Rouge and committing genocide out of fear for their own lives.  Many of the executioners and torturers defected and, once they were caught, found themselves on the receiving end of the punishments they had dished out to hundreds and thousands of their own countrymen and women.



As we left S.21 and made our way towards the Killing Fields - a short c.15k trip - we found it difficult to imagine what it would have been like to live in Cambodia 30 years ago.  Between 1976 and 1979 Cambodia lost 25% of its population. Neighbours and friends were willing to turn each other over to the Khmer Rouge to save themselves, there was no one to trust and those who were surviving must have been living in perpetual fear. 

The Killing Fields

The short distance from S.21 to the Choeng Ek Killing Fields would have been a similar route that all prisoners made from S.21 to the fields - many of whom thought they were being moved to another prison or being set free - this was not the case.  We now knew more about what to expect here but I'm not sure you can ever be prepared for being so close to the evidence of mass murder.

We had an audio guide here which was really useful as it gave us loads more information and brought to life the personal stories of those who lost loved ones and even accounts from those who worked at the fields for the KR.  There are many many pits with thousands of bodies found in each one. Due to the vast amounts of bones in the area it has not been possible for archaeologists to excavate the fields 100%.  As a result, following the heavy rains during the monsoon season the ground moves and new bones reach the surface so people working there are constantly excavating.  In fact, as you walk round the fields you can clearly see bones that have just surfaced on the walk ways and paths and have to be careful to avoid walking on them. The most disturbing area in the whole compound was the killing tree where babies and toddlers were killed before being tossed into the pits.

There is a memorial to the people who died there - a very tall structure which includes a glass case in the middle with lots of shelves - on each shelf are hundred of skulls that have been collected from the area.  It is by no means the complete collection of all those who died but serves as a reminder to everyone about the thousands of people who died there.

The UN helped Cambodia set up a special Genocide Tribunal which opened in 2006 for the most senior men and women of the Khmer Rouge to be judged and sentenced. Whilst some have been sentenced, the trial still continues today but came too late for Pol Pot - the leader of the regime - who died in 1998 without facing trial.  Many survivors of the regime and those involved with the trial have reported that due to lengthy delays and the ages of those on trial, many of the ex Khmer Rouge leaders will become too frail to be sentenced (the sister in law of Pol Pot has Alzheimers and has been released on medical grounds) or will die before the trial reaches conclusion.

We left the killing fields feeling pretty low and a bit overwhelmed with what we had learned during the day.  Our final stop of the day was a Russian Market - a massive indoor market selling everything from clothes to food and car parts to cosmetics and medical supplies.  We wandered around for a few minutes and had some noodles before heading back to our hostel - not really in the right frame of mind for a shopping spree!

Back at the hostel later on we bumped into Uli which was great and we headed out for some dinner and a few drinks with her.

Siem Reap - 20th - 23rd Aug

The following day we took a bus from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap.  We had originally planned to also visit Sihanoukville on the West coast as we heard it has lovely beaches but we were short of time and heard the Thai beaches were similar so headed straight for Siem Reap and saved up some beach days for Thailand! Our bus wasn't until the afternoon so we took a last wander round Phnom Penh and had some lunch but not before Cal Y had his first shave and hair cut in nearly 3 months! Almost unrecognisable and looking about 10 years younger Cal E and Sarah couldn't quite believe it was the same person!

Before                                            After!


We arrived in Siem Reap in the early evening and took a wander round the town.  It is a lovely place with lots of bars, cafes and restaurants and with a street called Pub Street there seems to be a pretty decent night life! We headed into town for some tea and a few drinks before hitting the local night spot "Hip Hop" for a night cap - well really also because they had a big screen and the Manchester United Vs Everton game was on and Cal E needed his football fix (even if it was at 3am) - although we went home with a sad bunny as Man U - shock horror - LOST!! Oh dear! 

The next day we had a lazy day wandering about and clocking up some internet hours as we updated the blog and sorted out some admin and caught up with the folks on skype.  Things for Cal E went from bad to worse as during a pretty severe storm there were several power cuts and our internet cafe lost electricity right after 2 hours of solid blogging...who hadn't saved the last 2 hours of typing.......oh dear (again!). Sarah and Cal Y decided to leave Cal E to it as he turned a fuming purple colour at the computer with steam coming out his ears - safer to keep a reasonable distance at times like these! The remainder of the evening was low key as we had an early night in preparation of our 4am wake up call to go to the famous Angkor Wat temples for sunrise.

ANGKOR WAT?


Not going to lie - we had never really heard of Angkor Wat before we left the UK but as we started speaking to people who had been to Cambodia and did a little Lonely Planet guide book research it became clear that this was not to be missed.  Everyone said it was amazing but surely it couldn't compare to the Taj or some of the other impressive forts and temples we had already seen??.....WRONG!!!!

A little grumpy from our 4am wake up call we trundled along to the entrance in our tuk tuk - secretly delighted we had decided to take the lazy option and not cycle the 7k trip at this time in the morning.  Arriving in the pitch darkness we got our tickets and went to the main temple to watch the magical sun rise beside a lake - it really was an impressive sight and after some picture taking we headed into the first Hindu temple - Angkor Wat.



The first temple was enormous and surrounded by a massive moat.  As you wandered round you could get lost in all of the walk ways, corridors and different temples within the complex. We spent an hour or so walking around and taking pics before meeting our tuk tuk driver to take us to the next temple which was a short drive away.





There are many many temples in this area - Angkor Wat being the main one - and the were all built in the 12th-13th century.  They are pretty spread out so you either need a few days to go see them all or you can do the main ones in a day if you have a tuk tuk.  We opted for the day tour with the tuk tuk and visited about 4 or 5 of the main temples.

As we went from temple to temple they were all equally as impressive and all had different styles with different carvings and structures. Our favorite was a temple that had been engulfed by massive trees and their route systems had entwined themselves around the temple walls and carvings - it was such an impressive sight. Along the way there were people selling paintings of some of the carvings which were pretty cool so we splashed out on some of those - hoping they will survive the next few months of traveling and make it home in one piece!





We headed back into Siem Reap by the afternoon - tired from our early rise and lots of exploring - we chilled out the rest of the day and managed to get hold of a copy of the movie the Killing Fields and watched it that evening.  It was really in interesting to watch it after we had seen the museum etc so recently and understood a little of what actually went on. 

This was our last day in Cambodia....tomorrow we fly to Laos!!!

Laos 23rd - 28th August

We had heard so much about Laos, and looking back it's hard to believe we were very close to omitting it. However, we came, we saw, we want to go back.

Luang Prabang - 23rd - 25th August

As usual, we were pushed for time leaving Cambodia, so in order to work with our entry to Thailand, we hopped on a cheap flight to Luang Prabang in the north, and intended to work our way down the northern part of Laos.

After the flatness of Cambodia, the flight into LP airport treated us to spectacularly lush green mountains and the Mekong river snaking its way in between them.

After getting into town, getting lost, then finding a cool (and obviously cheap) place to stay, it was time to figure out what we were going to do there over the next few days in this beautiful, small city. After wandering around the humongous night market in the centre of town, we found a side street with lots cool food stalls. All you can pile on your plate for £1.50 (including a beer), that'll do me! We then managed to book a trip for the next day including a boat trip along the Mekong to the Pak Ou caves, and then a trip out to the Kuang Si waterfalls.

Pak Ou caves, Kuang Si waterfall and bare feet bowling!

So, off we go. In the morning we headed down from our guesthouse to the river to where our long boat would set off. As our guesthouse was on the banks, it didn't take long. On the boat we met three people from Luxembourg - Tom, Tom and Kim. Having now met five Luxembourgers on our travels, that means we now know about 50% of their population.
The boat tide took around an hour, which was a fun experience to be bobbing along the Mekong in yet another country. The caves themselves were smaller than we had imagined, but the number of Buddha statues that it contained made up for any disappointment. There were literally thousands, placed there for worship.





Following the boat ride back, involving a stop at a "whisky village", we set about heading the 32km to the Kuang Si waterfalls via a tuk tuk. Once you arrive there is a 15 minute walk up to the first major fall, which takes you through a bear sanctuary. These guys have been rescued from various situations and are there for recovery. Having seen, amongst other things, bear paw whisky at the village earlier, we could see why they needed protection.



The waterfalls themselves were incredible. Spread out slog a few hundred meters and cascading down multiple levels, there were areas for swimming, diving, and the ever popular rope swing.
The uppermost waterfall was the most impressive, however it did present a problem to look at (and take pictures of) due to the amount of spray that was lashing down on you!



Having taken in this behemoth we headed back down for the rope swing. Basically you wade through the current to a tree, upon which you climb out on a branch and retrieve the rope with a long stick, whilst also endevouring to keep your balance on the branch! Then gravity takes over. Swinging out and letting go you land in the pool formed by the waterfall almost overhead. Then trying not to be swept away by the current you come back to shore and try again.




We met the Luxembourg guys doing the same thing, so arranged to go out for a couple of drinks later.
That night we grabbed some (as always) awesome Laos curries and then wandered down to the waterfront with the Tom's and Kim to the town's most popular bar, Utopia. Set outside on the riverbank, it was a cool place to sit on you cushion crossed legged on the floor and enjoy a beer. Or in Sarah's case, regret being enticed by a glass of wine for the first time in three months to discover it tastes like cider...

The only problem with this bar (and the others in town) is that it closed at 11pm. So, what to do now? Of course, you jump in a tuk tuk like everyone else and travel 15km to go ten pin bowling in your bare feet (as naturally they have no shoes left!). Cal Y would like me to add that he managed his best ever score. Bare feet must have helped!



Good night, good people, but the next morning did not feel so great. After deciding we needed some food before bed, we each shared the cheese and ham baguette we bought at a street stall the night before to take on our excursions during the day. Bad idea.

All three of us felt extremely ropey, just in time for our 5 hour minibus ride through the Laos mountains on the windiest roads we've yet travelled, on our way to Vang Vieng. Tubing awaited, so we put on a brave face!
Okay, so the bus ride was not pleasant, but one on of our designated toilet stops we were treated to some outstanding Laos scenery from the restaurant of which this was the view:


Vang Vieng - 25th - 27th August - let tubing commence!

Our next installment of Laos was to be the picturesque town of Vang Vieng, the home of Tubing. For those who don't know, tubing involves getting a large inflated inner tube, sitting in it, and floating down a river. Throw in multiple riverside bars and you've got one heck of a fun day.
We arrived in Vang Vieng at night time, and headed to our new abode - Easy Go Hostel. Upon arrival we were greeted by three drunk English people who were just arriving back after a days tubing. They were all in top spirits, even though the first girl, Jess, had a cut down her nose that hadn't yet stopped bleeding. The second girl was just as drunk but seemingly injury free. And finally the guy, Jimmy, arrived hobbling along afterwards, with a makeshift walking stick, and a balloon tied to his shoulder... What were we letting ourselves in for?
Turns out Jess had accidentally been caught in the face by an unnamed friend. Jimmy's injury involved tripping off a platform and hurting his knee pretty bad - aggravating an old rugby injury. We sat in that night and chatted - both lovely people.

The main thing you notice about Vang Vieng when you walk through town is that it seems as if it is a place that has sprung up around the tourist draw of the tubing. But when the tourists outnumber the locals 15-1 in town, you can see why. The buildings on the main streets are mostly restaurants, which all show reruns of Friends or Family Guy...non stop! This is coupled by them mostly serving pizza and burgers. An odd combination considering the incredible Laos scenery that lines the river in their backdrop. The first night was a fairly quiet one as we still weren't on top form. We eventually settled down in our bamboo beds and got some shut eye.
The next day was our first tubing day. Unfortunately we are unable to provide photos from the tubing, for fear of losing our cameras in the river. To be honest, it's probably best there was no photographic evidence...
We picked up our large tubes then headed a few km north to where the tubing begun, which was, of course, a bar! This first bar pumped out dance music, had ten tables set up for beer pong, sported extremely muddy volleyball, continuously sprayed out water to those in need of a shower water, and had whisky buckets for £2. The place was mobbed. We spent a good couple of hours on the beer pong tables and enjoying the company. Cal's basketball move even made an appearance in a dance off with an Irish boy. Cal still maintains he won.

It was then time to tube down to the next bar. This involved getting back in your tube, setting off down the river, then having the next bar throw a plastic bottle attached to a rope to you, grabbing hold, then getting pulled in. The festivities go on until dark, where you either float back down to town, or you come in earlier and get a tuk tuk back. At night everyone then descends on Bucket Bar to dance into the night. Three words can explain the vibe in Vang Vieng. "Spring Break, woohoo"!! We got this from one of the friends episodes we watched in town.

So, our first day of tubing was over. We had a lot of fun and managed to stay out of trouble. So we decided to stay another day :-) And we were not the only ones who this happened to either. Some guys had been there for two weeks! There was also a t-shirt which read "I'll leave Vang Vieng tomorrow"!

One of my most memorable moments I have of this experience was sitting in my tube, casually floating down the river, a beer in my hand, the most stunning mountain scenery, and just laughing to myself. What the heck kind of place is this?!

Unfortunately we have heard vicious rumours from other travellers that in the few weeks following our visit, tubing in Vang Vieng has now be closed down. Don't worry mum, we got out safely. The only picture we managed was the view from our hostel. Not too shabby.



 Our next day was another four hour mini bus trip to the capital Vientiane, just for a night, before getting the train to Bangkok the next morning. It was a pretty quiet one to be fair - but I would just like to add that in Vientiane we had possibly the best pizzas we have ever eaten. You need to "Go West-ern" once in a while.

Laos - we'll be back.

Into Thailand... 28th Aug - 14th Sept

Bangkok - 28th Aug - 1st Sept

Following a fairly comfortable overnight train from Laos we made it to our next destination - Thailand!! By this point we had decided to spend at least 2-3 weeks in Thailand starting with Bangkok then Chiang Mai, Pai, Koh Phi Phi and ending on the east coast islands.

We arrived in Bangkok early and headed straight to the hostel following some swift haggling with the tuk tuk driver........we have definitely got the hang of this by now!! We dropped off our stuff in our pretty nice dorm and headed out to see some of the city. We started by heading to the famous Khaosan Road. It wasn't far and as we walked along it was amazing the sheer number of shops and stalls that occupied a spot on the street. Predominantly T-shirt shops, suits shops and Pad Thai stalls it was full of tourists and locals alike!!



 
We then decided to head to the Bangkok Art and Culture Centre which was recommended in the LP. We grabbed a tuk tuk (of which there were undoubtedly more than anywhere else we'd been) and went to see some Bangkok culture! The centre was a bit of a rip off of the Guggenheim in NYC but was still very cool with art all over the walls as well as chic art and clothes shops and trendy cafes. We spend a good couple of hours just wandering around before hunger got the better of us and we headed next door to the biggest Mall in Bangkok - MBK. This isn't a mall like Buchanan Galleries or The St James Centre, this place is HUGE!! Crammed with shops and stalls selling everything imaginable just trying not to get lost was going to be a challenge. We found our way to "Food Avenue" for a bite to eat and then had a scope round the shops. Cal Y and Sarah decided to invest in a new camera, following Sarah's being stolen in Hanoi, and having spent the last 3 months with Cal E and using his camera they decided to go for the same one. Before we left we had just enough time to grab some blank T-shirts and arrange some laser printing for our now famous "Esch Heure Geil.....Man" t-shirts!! We then had to rush back to catch up with Nick that we met in Varanasi for a few evening beers!!


We met Nick who hadn't changed a bit, still sporting the long beard and longer hair, the man epitomises the traveler look! It was great to catch up over a few beers on Khaosan and hear how the rest of his trip round India and Nepal had been. It's all the things he did that emphasises the need for 4-6 months to see India and Nepal properly.

 Nick enjoying some local cuisine

As usual over a few beers time got away from us and before we knew it, it was 2am and Cal Y and Sarah were heading to bed. Cal E and Nick decided a visit to "The Club" was needed and so headed there for the last hour.

The following day we dragged ourselves up at a reasonable time to head to the Wat Pho Temple and see the Reclining Buddha. Due to the expense and time needed to see the Grand Palace we decided to give this a miss and in the end we think it was a good decision as the temples of Wat Pho and the Reclining Buddha were awesome, much better than expected. The biggest golden Buddha statues we had seen, all really impressive and worth a visit. We then went for a boat ride down the river before having a wander through one of the markets near the hostel.





We had then arranged with Nick to meet again and go see some Muay Thai (Thai boxing) that evening. Unfortunately the stadium for the boxing that night was on the other side of Bangkok so we fought our way through the horrific Bangkok traffic for over an hour before at last making it to the stadium. It was well worth the journey, the stadium was small and sweaty but had a great atmosphere and as interesting as the fights were watching the spectators and "bookies" as they all bet on the fights throughout each one. We saw some great fights too with some big hits including one knock out where the guys legs literally just collapsed. Afterwards we also went to see some Thai table tennis before heading back to Khaosan road to finish the night off with a few final beers.





Our final day in Bangkok we slept in following another late night so grabbed a quick lunch and said farewell to Nick who we'd had a great couple of days with. We then had time for a couple of hours of shopping around Khaosan, all of us investing in a number of T-shirts to replace the one in our bags that were now well past their best before date!! We then headed back over to MBK to collect our T-shirts and then straight to the train station to catch the next overnight train up north to Chiang Mai.

Chiang Mai - 2nd - 5th September

We didn't have accommodation booked for our arrival in Chiang Mai so when we got there we just went with one of the tuk tuk drivers who offered us a good deal at fairly central hostel. The big thing to do in Chiang Mai is trekking so once we'd dropped our stuff we went for some food and then to look at some potential treks to do the following day. As expected there were loads of places offering similar deals so following a chat with a few of them we settled on a 2 day 1 night trek that took us through the jungle south of Chiang Mai and staying in a small village. The rest of the day we just spent looking around Chiang Mai and seeing some of the temples and markets within the old city.

That night the weekend market was on so we headed out for dinner in the market which was a mixture of great and awful. The dim sum we had was delicious and a real bargain at only 1 quid. Sadly Cal Y then opted for some tempura prawns that (unknown to him) had been cooked whole including the head, shell and tentacles which were not good at all. The market was great though with live music which we enjoyed with a few beers and then Sarah even got her nails done which the boys watched the Man Utd game in the one place was showing. It wasn't a late night though as it was an early start tomorrow for the trek.



Our trek the following day started at 8am as we made our way south with the 5 others that made up our group of 8. Our first stop was at an elephant camp where we rode the elephants into the start of the jungle and down a river. It was a much better elephant ride than the one in Nepal, the elephants seemed to be treated much better and with only 2 people on each elephant (as opposed to the 4 in Nepal) it was also much more comfortable for us on top. The elephant mahouts were fun guys too allowing us to sit on the front of the elephant and teaching us the commands. We got some great photos here as shown below.






After the elephant ride we started our trekking proper. We trekked to the first of two waterfalls we would stop at to have lunch. No one swam in this one as it was pretty fast following but it was nice to relax in the mist of the waterfall. We then trekked on for the rest of the day through the jungle. Our guide was a great laugh and we saw some spectacular views and really interesting parts of the jungle. Sadly no lions, tigers or bears though :).



We then arrived at the village we'd be staying in for the night, a really small village on the outskirts of the jungle that had one hut set aside for trekkers. We met another group of 8 there and we all dumped our stuff and headed straight for the showers. Once cleaned up we sat at the table in our hut and got to know everyone properly. We were lucky to have some great people in the group including 5 French, 2 Germans, a couple of lads from London, a Swede, an American, a Canadian and finally a hilarious Japanese guy. We had a delicious dinner of chicken curry cooked by the locals and then had a sing off with a group of the local kids who came to visit. All ranging from 3 - 13 they sang a huge number of local songs and then asked us to sing them some songs we knew. The best we managed was "Doe a Deer" (a tartan army classic) and then everyone sang auld land syne although the French and Germans may have had their own words!! As we were all tired from the day of trekking we didn't last long and before midnight nearly everyone was off to bed, after a few more tunes on the guitar!




Our second day trekking got underway around 9am as we headed back into the jungle. We trekked for an hour or so before stopping at an awesome waterfall that everyone was able to swim in. It was a pretty humid day so a swim in the waterfall was great and better than any morning shower!!



We then headed on and continued trekking for another 2 and half hours through the jungle. It had rained pretty heavy the night before so the trail was very slippy which wasn't ideal for the 2 Calum's, one in converse the other in Onisuka tigers, neither with much grip!! Still everyone managed to keep their feet, just, and we reached the end of our trek at 1pm. We then headed for some lunch and to finish the day we were going "bamboo rafting"!! This involves floating down a river on nothing more than a few pieces of bamboo held together by string. The fast parts of the river were great fun and despite our best efforts not to get wet (no one had swimming gear on) Cal Y was thrown off at one point as the raft captain (Thai guy steering the raft) tipped the raft right up on its side. Sarah and Cal E were crouching at this point so managed to stay on but Cal Y, standing full upright, had no chance and was left swimming back to the raft! It was great fun though and a beautiful day for it so even a drenched Cal wasn't complaining.

We then arrived back in Chiang Mai for a final night before heading to Pai. It was a quiet one in the end entailing just a few beers in the evening at the hostel and then dinner in a local place nearby. Again I think everyone was tired from the day of walking and rafting so it was bed by midnight and an early start the next day to get to Pai as soon as we could.

Pai - 5th - 7th September - a state of mind....

We left Chaingmai for a relatively short bus ride north to the lovely sleepy own of Pai. As the guide book states - it's not so much what there is to do in Pai but rather "a state of mind....". We arrived in the afternoon into the centre of Pai and were debating whether to walk or get a left to our hostel - Spicy Pai - which was a little out of town - when the heavens opened and we were caught in the middle of a massive rain storm.  There is only one thing to do when the weather gets like that - head to the nearest cafe for a long lunch and watch the storm as it passes through - so that is what we did!



After a couple of hours it was safe to head back out and we walked to our hostel which was one of the coolest places we have stayed so far.  The hostel was built in the middle of a rice field and made entirely out of bamboo! The beds in the dorm room were not only 2 stories high but 3 and provided an excellent assault course for the hostel's family of pet cats and kittens.





After we settled in we went back into town and rented some bicycles, booked ourselves onto a cooking course and found the second best burger place in the world (the first being Ferg's in New Zealand naturally!) - Burger Queen - mmmmmm delicious!! After stuffing ourselves we had a quiet drink at a nearby bar before walking back to out bamboo house.



Hot springs, bikes, cooking and party time!


Today was a busy day! Once we surfaced we took our bikes and went into town for brekkie at Big's Little Cafe for a HUGE fry-up to get ready for the rest of the day - we then cycled 7km or so to the hot springs.  The road was pretty hilly and we were knackered by the time we got there so were looking forward to a nice soak to ease our muscles. On arrival we walked about and found some springs were 80 degrees and you could actually buy eggs to boil them in the spring!



We preferred to soak ourselves rather than the eggs so we found a pool at a more reasonable temperature and had a lovely soak.  Then it was back on the bikes for the ride back into Pai and to get ready for our cooking class!



We had decided what 4 meals each we were cooking the day before so between us we made green & red curry including making the paste from scratch, chicken & cashew nut stir-fry, pad thai, papaya salad, tom-yam soup, spring rolls and sweet coconut rice with mango - mmmmmmm! The class started with a trip to the market to pick up our ingredients and a quick explanation of what they all are etc.  We then headed back to the school to begin our lesson in the outside garden kitchen. We started with the curry paste which involved a lot of grinding in the pestle and mortar and was great fun. We lost electricity at one point and had to cook by candle light and head torch adding to the challenge! Cal Y learned how to make amazing spring rolls and Cal E learned when asked the question "how spicy do you want your soup?" the answer in Thailand is always - "not very"! 4 chilies later Cal's soup was HOT!!!! Sarah's new fav desert came in the form of coconut rice and mango - a bit of an effort required with overnight soaking of the rice, then steaming for an hour in a bamboo steamer and then stirring in coconut milk and leaving for another hour but the end result is most definitely worth it!!!



After well and truly stuffing ourselves we headed to meet some of the folks from our hostel who were having a night out at a local bar which was hosting an open mike night.  There was loads of really good music, dancing and the return of the buckets! The night continued onto a rasta bar which even survived a visit from the local police man and his dog!


 The next day we checked out of our lovely Pai hostel and headed back to Chaingmai to catch our flight to Phuket - a long,  tiring day of traveling but a week of Island hopping awaits! Woop Woop!!!